Alex Honnold fuels his free-solos with cookies—his favorite are chocolate chip—and he crushes everything from 290 pitches on his birthday to biking hundreds of miles to climb all of California’s 14,000-footers. You should give in to the cookie temptation too. Why? Well for one, you’ll be one step closer to being Alex Honnold. For another, you’ll…
Tag: bouldering
HAT BETA: A Flowchart Guide to Belayer Headwear
Originally published June 15, 2015, on coffeetapeibuprofenclimb.blogspot.com.
Rest Day Activities
As much as we’d like to, few of us can climb hard for even five days in a row without suddenly being unable to send V4 (or V1 if you’re me). If you’re climbing outside on a week-plus-long trip or just psyched on a project near home, your skin is likely destroyed after a few days,…
The Art of Climbing Slowly
Like downclimbing, climbing slowly takes much skill and practice; however, once mastered, this art can enhance your climbing experience greatly. All genres of climbing can be slowed down, from taking as long as possible to set up for a one-move-wonder boulder problem to taking your time to place each piece with perfection on a 10-pitch…
Scared of Being Scared
Fear is a familiar feeling for climbers. It’s natural. Your instincts are telling you that you’ve greatly increased your chances of dying by hanging yourself 20 to hundreds of feet above the ground and relying on a few nuts and cams or bolts, a rope, a belay device, and another person to keep you from hitting…
The Ultimate Guide to Dry Climbing Snacks
There are many benefits to packing extremely dry snacks for a day of climbing, hiking, or any other type of adventuring that involves cramming food into the bottom of a backpack. First, they won’t get your backpack incredibly sticky or damp when crushed against the rest of your gear, unlike the bananas I too often attempt…
A Letter to Spring
Dear Spring, According to my very colorful assignment book, it is April, and it has been for almost a week. This means that we should be solidly in spring. Easter has come and past, and I’m ready for sunshine, no snow, and more sunshine. So Spring, I’m wondering where you are. I’ve seen a few…
The Hierarchy of Climbing According to…
Originally published March 30, 2015, on coffeetapeibuprofenclimb.blogspot.com.
The Art of Car Camping
According to the calendar, spring is less than a week away. This means the season of car camping is quickly approaching—or, if you don’t mind overnight temperatures in the teens, it is already here. There are many benefits to car camping. First, there is little setup required. There are no tent poles to assemble, stakes…
Sometimes You Just Don’t Climb
This past Sunday I visited Pawtuckaway State Park. It had been a week since my last excursion there, but it felt much longer. My friends intended to go bouldering, braving the inch of ice and foot of snow covering every rock in the park. Normally I’d be psyched, but the idea of not being able…
Training to Beat the Winter Climbing Blues (and Stay Strong for Spring)
Climbing in the winter in New England is a test of how many frigid approaches you can walk to icy, unclimbable top outs before you become discouraged. It can be difficult to stay psyched when it’s 15 degrees out and your project is under two feet of snow. All those approaches lugging crash pads and extra layers…
The Art of Giving Beta
“I understand that your beta works for you, and you’re going with it even if you’ve fallen from that same spot 32 times.” – Chris Kalous on the Enormocast Knowing the beta can make or break a send. How are you supposed to find the magical hidden side-pull-bucket tucked away behind the arete onsight? Unless you’re…