It’s 2018, which means two things: 1. I can’t date anything correctly, and 2. Tis the season for New Year’s Resolutions. Classic Resolution 1: “I’m going on a diet.”* *Also known as: “I’m cutting out sugar/bread/carbs/sweets/chocolate” and/or “I’m trying to lose 5+ pounds to send my spring projects.” TRANSLATION: I’m going to begin the…
Category: Training
Three Incredibly Easy Ways to Eat More Protein
While we frequently hear that “the average American” gets plenty of protein in their diet, it’s important to remember that the average American doesn’t climb rocks, nor do they train to get better at climbing rocks. Most Americans don’t tax their muscles and tendons the way most climbers do, and thus most climbers need more…
Attitude Isn’t Everything, But It’s a Thing
I dislike rowing. I’m not a fan of most things cardio, especially those involving going nowhere on a machine indoors. I typically write them off as “boring” and “pointless.” However, I’ve determined that rowing once a week is probably the best indoor cardio cross-training exercise for my climbing. Thus, you’ll find me sweating out 5K…
Confessions of a Beginner MoonBoarder
The giant middle white starting jug is by far my favorite hold. I’m secretly disappointed when “easy” problems start anywhere else. I get super psyched when I flash. It’s usually a 6b+. After the kickboard, the feet are rarely quite where I want them. Also, the kickboard feet are much slipperier than they look. I fall…
(Climbing) Nutrition Simplified
Much of the information about nutrition that we ingest online is confusing and conflicting. Every article and podcast seems to encourage us to eat in a new way. Should we try out the ketogenic diet? What about going back to our roots and eating paleo? Or ditch animal products altogether to become vegan? Or maybe…
10 Reasons Why I Suck at Training
As you guessed from the title, I have a confession to make: I’m terrible at training. In fact, it would be hard to argue that I train at all… I have zero books, Excel spreadsheets, apps, notebooks, or pieces of scrap paper outlining possible training regimens. I have never even attempted to follow one…
I Stopped Running and This is What DIDN’T Happen
I used to run a lot. Well, not a lot for an ultra runner or marathoner or even a college cross country runner, but I ran at least 5 days a week for anywhere between 3 and 10 miles at a time. That’s a lot of running for a climber. I’ve since stopped running, having jogged just…
Maximize Your Training During Peak Gym Hours
If you’re a “9-5er” and live in the vicinity of a climbing gym, you know the frustration of attempting to train during busy hours. With two kids teams stealing a third of the routes for their after-school practice, their parents milling around, and all the other 9-5ers showing up at the same time, it’s hard to find space on…
A Week of Home Workouts Via YouTube
Some weeks you’re too busy to sneak away from work early for an afternoon outside, to do 4x4s at the gym, or even to design a home workout schedule for yourself. This is where YouTube comes in. I rarely find the motivation to make up and then do 10 minutes of core strengthening or pushups or stretching or anything else when…
Tips for Training in College
However psyched, bummed, or indifferent you are about “back to school,” it’s getting to be that time of year. Thankfully for my stress levels, I’m not joining the textbook-buying rush, but, after having “campused” my honors BA in three years while simultaneously working two jobs, I know the difficulties of trying to fit in enough outdoor climbing…
Pulling Plastic in Berlin: The Best Indoor and “Outdoor” Climbing in the City
Berlin isn’t known for its fantastic highballs, limestone tufas, splitter hand cracks, or really any other type of outdoor climbing beyond a bit of illegal buildering. There isn’t any good climbing directly outside of the city either. The Frankenjura is over four hours away by car, the Alps are a 10-hour bus ride south, and…
“Training” to Feel Good About Yourself vs. Training to Actually Get Better
I’ll admit: I’ve been doing a lot of “training to feel good about myself” for the past eight weeks. And by “a lot,” I mean doing something about four days a week for at least 10 minutes. Despite the fact that I’ve broken a sweat a few times, these sessions haven’t led to sore muscles or…
Coffee. Tape. Climb. 