Some people really like to warm up for a day of sport climbing. My friend Erin is a big fan of starting the day on a nice easy 5.6-5.7 before hopping on her 5.11 project. But sometimes starting out too easy can have adverse effects. I have a tendency to get used to jugs. I wonder…
Tag: climbing
How (I Wish) I Sprained My Ankle
***Disclaimer: If any of the details or events of this tale appear true, it is purely by coincidence. None of the following occurred in part or in whole, though it would have been epic and would mean I’m 10 times above my current climbing ability level.*** It was pouring. Nothing new for autumn in New England, but it…
Climbers and Their Hands
For many things it’s an accomplishment to have your fingers bleed. If a pop-rock artist sings that he played his guitar, “’till my fingers bled,” he is seen as dedicated. If you hammer nails, rake leaves, or chop wood till your blisters bleed, you’re hardworking and should invest in better gloves. If you’re a small child,…
Snapshots of Some Climbing Friends
Erin is one of the few girls I climb with, and she’s awesome. She reminds me to eat, is encouraging and supportive even when I’m unnecessarily hangdogging, and is always down for a good Pawtuckaway night bouldering session. What makes Erin unique is her refusal to climb routes she’s not enjoying. If she’s not having fun,…
Belaying (as) a Small Female
Your average non-climber understands that ascending a cliff requires a certain amount of skill and expertise. This non-climber has little to no idea of the range of skill or what skills exactly that might entail, but (s)he gets that climbing involves some form of competence. However, not everyone appreciates the skill involved in lead belaying. Yes…
Avoiding Amusement-Park-esque Lines at the Crag
When I visit Six Flags, I expect to wait in line for hours to get my 67-second rollercoaster fix. In fact, most of the day is spent anticipating thrills while standing next to hundreds of other people doing the same thing. I will wait 57 minutes to ride the Griffon at Bush Gardens; I will not, however, sit at…
Romping in the Rain
Rain, rain go away. We have gear to take away. Sundown is the perfect weekend crag, with no crowds, routes that stay dry in the rain, and easy access off the Conway side of the Kancamagus highway. The classics start at 5.11c for sport routes, so you won’t find any community groups in matching helmets lined…
A Lincoln Woods Adventure
A wise man from the documentary “180 Degrees South” once said: “The word adventure has gotten overused. For me, when everything goes wrong – that’s when adventure starts.” -Yvon Chouinard By that definition, Lincoln Woods was a small adventure. “Or we could go tonight,” was Tommy’s response to my reiterating our plan to spend the…
In the Beginning
The transition from gym to outdoor climbing can be a difficult and an unfortunately seldom one for new climbers first introduced to gym culture. I admit, I started out as a gym rat, dragging myself up indoor V0s after joining the University of New Hampshire climbing team on a whim. I wasn’t fast enough to run Division…
Coffee. Tape. Climb. 