Climbing in the winter in New England is a test of how many frigid approaches you can walk to icy, unclimbable top outs before you become discouraged. It can be difficult to stay psyched when it’s 15 degrees out and your project is under two feet of snow. All those approaches lugging crash pads and extra layers…
Tag: climbing
Leading…Trad
My first time leading sport was memorable, a long 5.8 at Rumney with plenty of jugs and rope drag. There were solid hand and foot holds, something I rarely encountered bouldering at P-way, so I really was more focused on not back-clipping than being scared of falling. Leading trad for the first time was not…
Post Dawn Wall Predictions
Because you haven’t heard enough about the Dawn Wall in the past three weeks…Here are some of my post Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free-climb FA predictions: Adam Ondra will book a flight to California ASAP to try to onsight the Dawn Wall. Kevin Jorgeson will incorporate skin strengthening exercises into training for subsequent projects….
The Art of Giving Beta
“I understand that your beta works for you, and you’re going with it even if you’ve fallen from that same spot 32 times.” – Chris Kalous on the Enormocast Knowing the beta can make or break a send. How are you supposed to find the magical hidden side-pull-bucket tucked away behind the arete onsight? Unless you’re…
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
I spent the past two weeks climbing in Jasper, Arkansas, with Tommy and Tristan. Despite rain followed by sub-zero temperatures, difficulty finding gas stations at 3 a.m., and having entire walls missing from the guidebook, we managed to tick off a few of the over 400 routes. Welcome to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR) where camping…
The Climber’s Twelve Days of Christmas
On the first day of Christmas my partner sent to me: A Golden Retriever puppy On the second day of Christmas my partner sent to me: Two portaledges And a Golden Retriever puppy On the third day of Christmas my partner sent to me: Three rope bags Two portaledges And a Golden Retriever puppy On the fourth day of Christmas my partner sent to me: Four ATCs Three rope bags Two portal edges A Golden Retriever…
Fall 2014 Season Recap
It’s officially winter according to the calendar (and has been since before Thanksgiving according to the number of layers I’ve been wearing), so I figured I’d give a fall season recap before kicking off the winter season with a two-week trip south. First off, here are some notable sends by (every-man) people that are not me…
Climbing Tips for Boys (About Climbing with Girls)
First, lets clear up one myth: Girls are not that complicated. Climbing girls are even less complicated: We have one-track minds to, you guessed it, climbing. So now that you know what climbing girls think about, you no longer have to be confused by our intentions when we ask if you’re going climbing, invite you…
Why “Coffee. Tape. Climb.”?
You may have been wondering why I named this blog “Coffee. Tape. Climb.” The last word is self-explanatory, but the other two may appear a bit random. They are not. They are the added ingredients that allow one to climb longer, harder, and for many days in a row. The idea was originally born out…
Many Thanks for Climbing
First there’s the obvious: I am thankful I started climbing. I’m thankful that my friends brought me to our local gym a few times the summer I started college; I’m thankful the UNH climbing team doesn’t cut kids who project V0; I’m thankful to have met some of the right, and best, people to help foster my love…
Climbing in the Cold
It’s November, which means only the oak trees still have leaves, it gets dark at 4:30 p.m., and everyone gets excited about eating pumpkin pie with their relatives. It also means it’s cold, with air and rock temperatures routinely dipping into the 30s. Sure this supposedly makes crimps “sticky,” but it also makes my hands…
Dear Future Crag Puppy,
We are going to be great friends. You are going be an adorable, irresistible, soft, wiggly puppy. You will have the opportunity to join in on some lengthy approaches, non-climbing day hikes, mid-day naps, evening swims, and midnight snacks. We will have loads of fun, get super strong, and enjoy a life of adventure. By…
Coffee. Tape. Climb. 