Having a set routine before you begin every climb can help get you into the sending mindset. Whether you’re warming up on a 5.6 or getting ready to give your 5.13d project a redpoint burn, if you go through the same steps each time, you will be prepared to focus entirely on the motions necessary to send. You also will try 76.43 percent* harder.
Don’t have a routine yet? No problem. Below is a 13-step process to get you started. Feel free to add additional steps you find helpful.
- Eat a snack. Whether your route is four bolts or fourteen, you need glucose from simple sugars to power you for the send. Gummies in any form—bears, fish, penguins, blocks—are great.
- Take a sip of water. Hydration is key for performance. Plus you just ate sugar-loaded gummies, so your mouth is likely quite dry and sticky.
- Tie in.
- Take off crag shoes. Squeeze feet into tiny rubber shoes.
- Check your knot. Have your partner check your knot.
- Check your partner’s belay device. Have them check it too.
- Check your hair in case of pictures.
- Point out places you might fall and special clipping holds to ensure soft catches and minimal short-roping.
- Take off jacket.
- Tell partner how you feel about the route—excited, nervous, unhappy that a key hold is wet, etc. Now tell them how attractive they are to keep them happy.
- Brush dirt off climbing shoes and onto pant-legs or your legs if wearing shorts.
- Chalk up. Chalk up again for good measure.
- Grab starting holds. Chalk up a third time. Begin climbing.
*Statistic has not been scientifically verified.
Originally published August 24, 2015, on coffeetapeibuprofenclimb.blogspot.com.