Fall is my absolute favorite season for several reasons: The mornings and evenings are refreshingly cool and crisp, but there’s no snow, and it’s not cold enough for me to start numbing out on routes or lose feeling in my feet while belaying. Headbands. Dad sweaters. Flannels. The thick socks I wear year round no…
Three Incredibly Easy Ways to Eat More Protein
While we frequently hear that “the average American” gets plenty of protein in their diet, it’s important to remember that the average American doesn’t climb rocks, nor do they train to get better at climbing rocks. Most Americans don’t tax their muscles and tendons the way most climbers do, and thus most climbers need more…
Don’t Do It In The Gym
This is not a complete gym etiquette article. I won’t tell you how many laps you can acceptably hog the auto belay for or how to tell that V1 crusher that they’re going to blow up every tendon in their arms if they keep doing weighted hangs. Instead, this a mini “Don’t Do It In The…
10 Brief Reasons Why Approaches Suck
Sweat. Walking. Hills. Precipitation. Racks, draws, ropes, water, and other heavy items in backpacks. Wet talus. Loose talus. Any talus. Bulky pads made more awkward with backpacks stuffed in them. I happened to sprain my ankle on an approach yesterday. But I love climbing rocks, so a little walking, sweating, gear carrying, ankle rolling, and wet…
Box Life FAQs
So you live in a box?? Yup! I live in a “tiny home” on wheels that I bought on Craigslist and built out in a week and a half before moving in. My friends and I fondly call it “The Box,” since it really is a sad looking homemade white box from the outside. How long have…
Six Things I Hate About Camping
Really this is “Six Things I Dislike About Tenting,” but who would click on a title like that? ONE: FINDING A FLAT, ROOTLESS, ROCKLESS PLACE TO SET UP THE TENT. In the desert it’s not so bad, but I grew up in New England, where it’s nearly impossible to find a nice, flat, rootless spot in…
The Ten Commandments of Dirtbag Grocery Shopping
I. Thou shalt always look for the store brand first. II. Thou shalt never set foot in Whole Foods unless someone else is buying. III. Thou shalt shop all the reduced produce and day old baked goods sections FIRST. IV. Thou shalt next shop the sales only for items on thy grocery list. V. Thou…
Attitude Isn’t Everything, But It’s a Thing
I dislike rowing. I’m not a fan of most things cardio, especially those involving going nowhere on a machine indoors. I typically write them off as “boring” and “pointless.” However, I’ve determined that rowing once a week is probably the best indoor cardio cross-training exercise for my climbing. Thus, you’ll find me sweating out 5K…
The “Adult” PB&J
Sugar and fat smeared between two slices of bread: Whoever invented the PB&J was a genius. They’re also to thank for my current go-to climbing snack. Here’s how I’ve upgraded a childhood classic into a not-so-unhealthy, cheap, delicious, “adult” cragging snack: THE ADULT PB&J INGREDIENTS: Peanut Butter – The kind with just peanuts and optional salt,…
Every Seasons’ Must Have: A Raincoat
Raincoats are awesome. Not only do the classic yellow ones bring sunny happiness to drizzly days, but they have many uses beyond the obvious keeping your torso, head, and arms dry during precipitation events. Summer is here in Colorado, and so are the afternoon thundershowers. I’m significantly less grumpy getting poured out of Boulder Canyon…
Confessions of a Beginner MoonBoarder
The giant middle white starting jug is by far my favorite hold. I’m secretly disappointed when “easy” problems start anywhere else. I get super psyched when I flash. It’s usually a 6b+. After the kickboard, the feet are rarely quite where I want them. Also, the kickboard feet are much slipperier than they look. I fall…
Coffee. Tape. Climb. 