The Ten Commandments of Sport Climbing

1. Thou shalt think of tufas, training, red pointing, “the red,” fitness, your fingers, power-endurance, and/or clipping no less than 87.6 percent of your waking hours (and in at least 54.2 percent of your dreams). 2. Thou shalt not become a boulderer. Thou shalt only boulder for training and occasional fun. 3. Though shalt not drop thy partner…

Gear Review: Metolius Rock Rings for Portable Training

I got a lot of weird looks from the Boston TSA personnel when they pulled my green Metolius Rock Rings out of my carry-on. The woman inspecting my backpack simply looked at me with her head cocked and eyebrows squeezed together in confusion. She then beckoned her middle-aged boss over so that I could explain…

The Post-Workout PB & Banana Recovery Smoothie and Variations

This post-workout carb and protein combination, in a 4:1 ratio, is the fitness and nutrition communities’ recommendation for promoting ultimate recovery from any and all types of physical activity deemed a “workout.” It turns out that chocolate milk is a cheap, tasty way satisfy this 4:1 balance, and thus it has been promoted enough that…

New Year’s Climbing “Resolutions”

First, I should come clean: I’m not a New Year’s resolution type of person. I don’t join the hoards of two-week January Planet Fitness goers who lose interest in legs day long before Valentine’s Day chocolates—I can’t say I’ve ever done legs day unless jogging counts. Nor do I resolve that this is the year…

Seven Ways to Continue Training with a Leg Injury

So you sprained your ankle, broke your leg, tweaked your knee, or did something else to cause pain to your lower appendage(s). No problem. Sure, you’re bummed that you have to take a few weeks off during prime bouldering season and your 4X4-training schedule is shut down, but that doesn’t mean you have to stop…

Training for the Lander International Climbers’ Festival

The International Climbers’ Festival has been a Lander, Wyoming, summer highlight since it began in 1993. Each July, hundreds of climbers from around the world come to Lander to climb limestone pockets at Wild Iris, slide down natural rock waterslides after exploring the sport and trad routes in Sinks Canyon, camp for free in City Park,…

Training to Beat the Winter Climbing Blues (and Stay Strong for Spring)

Climbing in the winter in New England is a test of how many frigid approaches you can walk to icy, unclimbable top outs before you become discouraged. It can be difficult to stay psyched when it’s 15 degrees out and your project is under two feet of snow. All those approaches lugging crash pads and extra layers…