Classic (Climbing) New Year’s Resolutions & What They Really Mean

It’s 2018, which means two things: 1. I can’t date anything correctly, and 2. Tis the season for New Year’s Resolutions.   Classic Resolution 1: “I’m going on a diet.”* *Also known as: “I’m cutting out sugar/bread/carbs/sweets/chocolate” and/or “I’m trying to lose 5+ pounds to send my spring projects.” TRANSLATION: I’m going to begin the…

Confessions of a Beginner MoonBoarder

The giant middle white starting jug is by far my favorite hold. I’m secretly disappointed when “easy” problems start anywhere else. I get super psyched when I flash. It’s usually a 6b+. After the kickboard, the feet are rarely quite where I want them. Also, the kickboard feet are much slipperier than they look. I fall…

(Climbing) Nutrition Simplified

Much of the information about nutrition that we ingest online is confusing and conflicting. Every article and podcast seems to encourage us to eat in a new way. Should we try out the ketogenic diet? What about going back to our roots and eating paleo? Or ditch animal products altogether to become vegan? Or maybe…

10 Reasons Why I Suck at Training

  As you guessed from the title, I have a confession to make: I’m terrible at training. In fact, it would be hard to argue that I train at all… I have zero books, Excel spreadsheets, apps, notebooks, or pieces of scrap paper outlining possible training regimens. I have never even attempted to follow one…

I Stopped Running and This is What DIDN’T Happen

I used to run a lot. Well, not a lot for an ultra runner or marathoner or even a college cross country runner, but I ran at least 5 days a week for anywhere between 3 and 10 miles at a time. That’s a lot of running for a climber. I’ve since stopped running, having jogged just…

10 Reasons Why I’d Love to “Magically” Improve My Climbing

Most days I wish I was better at climbing. Even on the days I happen to send, I often secretly wish I was topping out something harder, not just for the V points or glory, but because breaking into V8 and 5.13 would allow me to send–or at least productively hang-dog–so many amazing routes. Now you might…

The Gym Guide Pyramid: What I Look for in an Indoor Climbing Facility

Living in Boulder, CO, I’m a two mile walk/drive/bike ride from three of the country’s best climbing gyms, four if you count ABC Kids, and a twenty-minute drive from a brand-new EVO Rock + Fitness one town over. Naturally, I’ve visited every gym at least once and have enjoyed slightly different experiences at each. Now, while I’m not here to…

Maximize Your Training During Peak Gym Hours

If you’re a “9-5er” and live in the vicinity of a climbing gym, you know the frustration of attempting to train during busy hours. With two kids teams stealing a third of the routes for their after-school practice, their parents milling around, and all the other 9-5ers showing up at the same time, it’s hard to find space on…

A Week of Home Workouts Via YouTube

Some weeks you’re too busy to sneak away from work early for an afternoon outside, to do 4x4s at the gym, or even to design a home workout schedule for yourself. This is where YouTube comes in. I rarely find the motivation to make up and then do 10 minutes of core strengthening or pushups or stretching or anything else when…

Your First (or Next) Climbing Tattoo

We are a tattooed generation, and there are many reasons why we decide to get our designs: Some have meaning, some look cool, some were on sale, and some just seemed like the thing to do at the time. So why not get a tattoo that tells others something about your favorite sport? You’ll show other climbers…