27 Things I’d Rather Do Than Run

I look like I run. I ran competitively for 5 years before I started climbing and “for fun” for another two years after that. Then something happened: I stopped running. And now I understand why people say they hate running. It’s sweaty, time-consuming, boring, too slow and too fast at the same time, and nowhere near as…

Seven Ways to Lose Weight for Climbing

1. Pee. Never start up a climb having to pee. Depending on how much coffee you’ve consumed, this could rid you of over a pound of extra weight, and you don’t need the unnecessary distraction of “holding it” while you’re cruxing out. 2. Poop. The same “don’t try to hold your poo through the crux” idea as above…

Eleven Facts About Raincoats

Raincoats are rarely 100% effective during precipitation events. Somehow water defies gravity and drips upward into the sleeves. Raincoats are more effective windbreakers than they are water repellers. In the event of a rainstorm, raincoats are most effective when worn underneath an umbrella to prevent them, and you, from getting wet. In this case, they’re simply…

Fall: The Season of Sending Psych

Fall is my absolute favorite season for several reasons: The mornings and evenings are refreshingly cool and crisp, but there’s no snow, and it’s not cold enough for me to start numbing out on routes or lose feeling in my feet while belaying. Headbands. Dad sweaters. Flannels. The thick socks I wear year round no…

Don’t Do It In The Gym

This is not a complete gym etiquette article. I won’t tell you how many laps you can acceptably hog the auto belay for or how to tell that V1 crusher that they’re going to blow up every tendon in their arms if they keep doing weighted hangs. Instead, this a mini “Don’t Do It In The…

10 Brief Reasons Why Approaches Suck

Sweat. Walking. Hills. Precipitation. Racks, draws, ropes, water, and other heavy items in backpacks. Wet talus. Loose talus. Any talus. Bulky pads made more awkward with backpacks stuffed in them. I happened to sprain my ankle on an approach yesterday. But I love climbing rocks, so a little walking, sweating, gear carrying, ankle rolling, and wet…

Six Things I Hate About Camping

Really this is “Six Things I Dislike About Tenting,” but who would click on a title like that? ONE: FINDING A FLAT, ROOTLESS, ROCKLESS PLACE TO SET UP THE TENT. In the desert it’s not so bad, but I grew up in New England, where it’s nearly impossible to find a nice, flat, rootless spot in…

The Ten Commandments of Dirtbag Grocery Shopping

I. Thou shalt always look for the store brand first. II. Thou shalt never set foot in Whole Foods unless someone else is buying. III. Thou shalt shop all the reduced produce and day old baked goods sections FIRST. IV. Thou shalt next shop the sales only for items on thy grocery list. V. Thou…

Confessions of a Beginner MoonBoarder

The giant middle white starting jug is by far my favorite hold. I’m secretly disappointed when “easy” problems start anywhere else. I get super psyched when I flash. It’s usually a 6b+. After the kickboard, the feet are rarely quite where I want them. Also, the kickboard feet are much slipperier than they look. I fall…

10 Reasons Why I Suck at Training

  As you guessed from the title, I have a confession to make: I’m terrible at training. In fact, it would be hard to argue that I train at all… I have zero books, Excel spreadsheets, apps, notebooks, or pieces of scrap paper outlining possible training regimens. I have never even attempted to follow one…

So Who The Heck Writes This Stuff Anyway?

Maybe you’ve read my brief “About” section. Maybe you haven’t. It tells you very little about me. So for those who are curious about who the heck writes this blog, here are some fun facts about this small female. Fun Facts: Age: 22 Height: 5’5″ Ape Index: 0 😦 Current City of Residence: Louisville, Colorado (essentially Boulder)…

13 Reasons to Get Psyched on Bouldering

I used to strongly identify as a sport climber. Routes had magical things called footholds and a grading system that started at a friendly 5.5, which made me feel significantly better about sending 5.10c than I did about sending V1 when the bouldering scale starts at V0. I also associated bouldering with snow-covered, footless Pawtuckaway State Park, where I spent…