Climbing Classes Coming Soon to a Gym Near You

Climbing gyms have exploded across the country, as have their class offerings. Enjoy these brand new classes, coming soon to a gym near you: How to not look like a gumby 101: Avoid looking like a clueless new climber with helpful climbing gym etiquette tips such as when to wear your climbing shoes (when actively climbing)…

Seven Ways to Lose Weight for Climbing

1. Pee. Never start up a climb having to pee. Depending on how much coffee you’ve consumed, this could rid you of over a pound of extra weight, and you don’t need the unnecessary distraction of “holding it” while you’re cruxing out. 2. Poop. The same “don’t try to hold your poo through the crux” idea as above…

Fall: The Season of Sending Psych

Fall is my absolute favorite season for several reasons: The mornings and evenings are refreshingly cool and crisp, but there’s no snow, and it’s not cold enough for me to start numbing out on routes or lose feeling in my feet while belaying. Headbands. Dad sweaters. Flannels. The thick socks I wear year round no…

Don’t Do It In The Gym

This is not a complete gym etiquette article. I won’t tell you how many laps you can acceptably hog the auto belay for or how to tell that V1 crusher that they’re going to blow up every tendon in their arms if they keep doing weighted hangs. Instead, this a mini “Don’t Do It In The…

10 Brief Reasons Why Approaches Suck

Sweat. Walking. Hills. Precipitation. Racks, draws, ropes, water, and other heavy items in backpacks. Wet talus. Loose talus. Any talus. Bulky pads made more awkward with backpacks stuffed in them. I happened to sprain my ankle on an approach yesterday. But I love climbing rocks, so a little walking, sweating, gear carrying, ankle rolling, and wet…

Box Life FAQs

So you live in a box?? Yup! I live in a “tiny home” on wheels that I bought on Craigslist and built out in a week and a half before moving in. My friends and I fondly call it “The Box,” since it really is a sad looking homemade white box from the outside. How long have…

The Ten Commandments of Dirtbag Grocery Shopping

I. Thou shalt always look for the store brand first. II. Thou shalt never set foot in Whole Foods unless someone else is buying. III. Thou shalt shop all the reduced produce and day old baked goods sections FIRST. IV. Thou shalt next shop the sales only for items on thy grocery list. V. Thou…

The “Adult” PB&J

Sugar and fat smeared between two slices of bread: Whoever invented the PB&J was a genius. They’re also to thank for my current go-to climbing snack. Here’s how I’ve upgraded a childhood classic into a not-so-unhealthy, cheap, delicious, “adult” cragging snack: THE ADULT PB&J INGREDIENTS: Peanut Butter – The kind with just peanuts and optional salt,…

Confessions of a Beginner MoonBoarder

The giant middle white starting jug is by far my favorite hold. I’m secretly disappointed when “easy” problems start anywhere else. I get super psyched when I flash. It’s usually a 6b+. After the kickboard, the feet are rarely quite where I want them. Also, the kickboard feet are much slipperier than they look. I fall…

(Climbing) Nutrition Simplified

Much of the information about nutrition that we ingest online is confusing and conflicting. Every article and podcast seems to encourage us to eat in a new way. Should we try out the ketogenic diet? What about going back to our roots and eating paleo? Or ditch animal products altogether to become vegan? Or maybe…

10 Reasons Why I Suck at Training

  As you guessed from the title, I have a confession to make: I’m terrible at training. In fact, it would be hard to argue that I train at all… I have zero books, Excel spreadsheets, apps, notebooks, or pieces of scrap paper outlining possible training regimens. I have never even attempted to follow one…