Most days I wish I was better at climbing. Even on the days I happen to send, I often secretly wish I was topping out something harder, not just for the V points or glory, but because breaking into V8 and 5.13 would allow me to send–or at least productively hang-dog–so many amazing routes. Now you might…
The PB&J Recovery Smoothie (Aka: Childhood in a Glass)
Tired of that same old sandy blender-bottle shake? Can’t stand to chug another kiddo carton of post-workout chocolate milk? Or are you still one of those “I can’t eat anything after a hard workout even though science says I should” people? Whether or not you answered “yes” to one or more of the above questions,…
(Trying to) Dress Like a Non-Dirtbag
“Look at you all showered this morning,” I greeted my friend Corey for our before-work session at the Boulder Rock Club. “Oh I haven’t showered,” was his sleepy reply. “Your hair’s just that greasy?” Fell out of my mouth. “Good, because I haven’t washed my hair in four days. And it shows.” This conversation might be somewhat…
The Climbing Destination Acronyms You Should Be Using
You’ve likely heard of “The Red,” and maybe “The New,” but when have you ever heard someone say “The Virgin River Gorge”–we all know it’s the “VRG.” With so many something river gorges and other “long” climbing destination names, we’ve naturally begun to communicate via acronyms and other shortened word/letter/number combinations (HP 40) when discussing outdoor plans. While you likely know…
The Gym Guide Pyramid: What I Look for in an Indoor Climbing Facility
Living in Boulder, CO, I’m a two mile walk/drive/bike ride from three of the country’s best climbing gyms, four if you count ABC Kids, and a twenty-minute drive from a brand-new EVO Rock + Fitness one town over. Naturally, I’ve visited every gym at least once and have enjoyed slightly different experiences at each. Now, while I’m not here to…
Maximize Your Training During Peak Gym Hours
If you’re a “9-5er” and live in the vicinity of a climbing gym, you know the frustration of attempting to train during busy hours. With two kids teams stealing a third of the routes for their after-school practice, their parents milling around, and all the other 9-5ers showing up at the same time, it’s hard to find space on…
To the Women’s Climbing Community: A Note of Support, Encouragement, and Challenge
“Hi, I’m Jess,” she said before gliding her way up my project. Thirty-five seconds later she was smiling down from the topout. “The heel-hook beta is the way to go,” she shouted down to me. She was right. Her beta was amazing, her hair was flowing, and her technique was flawless. Why didn’t I get her…
Valentine’s Day Special: 10 Reasons to Date Another Climber
Valentine’s Day is tomorrow, and I hope you’re giving chocolate, and/or flowers, and/or cams, and/or hand salve to a special someone. If you’re single, no worries; I highly recommend you buy yourself and your mom some chocolate. I also recommend that you choose your next date wisely: Here are ten reasons why, as a climber, you should…
Easy Maple Cinnamon Tendon-Strengthening Granola
Here is another recipe for my foodie, health-nut climbing buds. This maple cinnamon granola, inspired by and adapted from Steph Davis’s “Homemade Granola,” takes less than 10 minutes to prepare, packs lots of healthy omega-3 fatty acids and fiber-rich whole grains (think: keeps you full for hours), and tastes amazing plain, with soy or cow’s milk, cooked as…
The Ten Commandments of Bouldering
I. Thou shalt never use thy knees to top out. IIa. Thou shalt wait at least 7 minutes between attempts. IIb. Thou shalt also brush each hold thoroughly before each attempt. III. Thou shalt do anything and everything to climb during perfect temps, including hiking through snowdrifts and climbing by headlamp. IV. Thou shalt not consider anything…
Chocolate: The Secret to Making Everyone on Your Climbing Trip Love You (And So Much More)
Most people I know, including myself, are chocolate-lovers in some form or another. I love dark chocolate: the higher the percentage of coco and more sea salt the better. Others prefer creamy milk, nut-infused, ultra-sweet white or berry-filled bars. With so many delicious flavors, inexpensive options and colorful, inviting packages, why not start bringing a bar…
INTERVIEW: David Allfrey on Traveling, Staying Motivated Though Injury, and “Getting Back in Shape” for 2017
David Allfrey is best known for his unending psych and setting El Cap speed records. However, the 2016 recipient of the Robert Hicks Bates Award for “outstanding accomplishment by a young climber” who has “demonstrated exceptional skill and character in the climbing or mountaineering arts and has outstanding promise for future accomplishment” prefers to be known as a…
Coffee. Tape. Climb. 